Barbarian days: a surfing life

Off Diamond Head (Honolulu, 1966-67)

Smell the ocean (California, ca. 1956-65)

The shock of the new (California, 1968)

'Scuse me while I kiss the sky (Maui, 1971)

The search (The South Pacific, 1978)

The lucky country (Australia, 1978-79)

Choosing Ethiopia (Asia, Africa, 1979-81)

Against dereliction (San Francisco, 1983-86)

Basso profundo (Madeira, 1994-2003)

The mountains fall into the heart of the sea (New York City, 2002-15).